3 Tips for Sewing DBP
I admit I have fallen deep down the double brushed poly rabbit hole. This time around I have a new amazing dress to share. This is the Cashmerette Appleton Wrap Dress. This is the second time I have made this pattern. The first one was a couple years ago. I for the life of me cannot figure out what took me so long to make a second! This pattern is an easy sew that is incredibly well drafted. The instructions are clearly written and the finished product is an eye-catching dress.
When picking my fabrics for this months posts, I immediately fell in love with this print and thought it would make the perfect Appleton Dress. I was not wrong about this Dark Navy, Blue, and Pink colorway of the Firework Floral Double Brushed Poly Spandex Knit. There are only a couple of yards left of this particular one but there is also this Pink, Blue, and Orange colorway and this Red, Orange, and Blue colorway. I don’t think you can go wrong with either of the other colorways. I am considering if I need to add the Pink, Blue, and Orange to my stash.
To finish up this series of double brushed poly fangirling I have been doing all month, I thought I would share some sewing tips. These tips can also apply to sewing with other knits like spandex or jersey as well.
1. Use the right needles in your machine. For sewing DBP, I use Schmetz Stretch Needles. They have a yellow marking to differentiate them from others. They are a 90×14 needle with a medium ballpoint tip and a specially designed eye and scarf that help to prevent skipped stitches. Schmetz also has a Stretch Twin Needle, which I have yet to pick up, that would up your hemming game.
2. Use stretch threads. There are two threads I like and I tested both on the DBP garments I made this month. The first is my trusted Gutermann Bulky Nylon, which is identifiable by its characteristic loosely twisted fibers. This gives the thread some give for knit projects. With bulky nylon, I use it in my bobbin on my machine and in both loopers on my serger to give my seams a bit of stretch. My second stretch thread is the Coats & Clark Eloflex Thread. This is a newer thread type that is meant for activewear and swimwear type of projects. It is a strong synthetic thread that has stretch to it. I use this in both my needle and my bobbin, but not my serger. Both threads give your seams enough strength and give that they will not bust when pulled.
3. Use a press cloth. This is important. DBP is a synthetic fiber, which is basically plastic. It can be hard to press seams in polyester fabrics because of its wrinkle-resistant properties. This makes it easy to melt your fabric when you have the iron on a high heat setting applying pressure for a prolonged period of time. To prevent melting the fibers use a press cloth of silk organza or cotton muslin. Both absorb the heat from the iron without causing damage to the fabric underneath. You can buy specialty press cloths, but I think using a scrap piece of cotton muslin works just as well and costs a lot less (unless it is for velvet, then by the specialty one).
Do you have a recommended tip for sewing DBP or other knits? Share it with us by commenting below!