A Vintage Plaid Shirtdress (Vogue 9000)

Hi, Readers!

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I don’t know about you, but I’m ready for spring!  As it’s right around the corner, I figured it was time to start sewing some new dresses for warmer weather.  For me, that means cotton dresses that I can throw a cardi or a light jacket over and head out looking polished.  I love the retro simplicity and structure of a shirtdress, even if I don’t like ironing them before I walk out the door.

For my next Cali project I decided on Vintage Vogue 9000, a kimono sleeved reproduction shirtdress pattern from 1951.  I used this delicious teal and fuschia plaid fine cotton shirting, which is the perfect fabric to make a shirtdress with.  This fabric is lightweight, but not too light that it’s sheer, so I didn’t need to line or underline my dress.

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As I was matching plaids, I ordered more fabric than suggested.  The problem that I failed to consider when planning this project was that the plaid is a directional design (meaning that it is a one-way print) and I couldn’t cut out the flared skirt panels and match the plaids with the yardage that I had.  I spent a lot of time laying out my fabric pieces every which way I could think to try and make it work, but in the end, I had to forgo the lovely skirt included with the dress pattern.  Instead, I went with a gathered skirt that I cut into six rectangular panels to give the skirt an even and full effect with this retro dress.   Plus, gathered skirts are so much easier to plaid match!

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I love the little details of this pattern that it set it apart from other shirtdresses — like the sleeve cuffs, the large collar, and the self-fabric belt.  This is a Vogue pattern, so that means more hand sewing and vintage techniques.  The pattern includes shoulder pads, which I did make, but in the end I felt that this dress looks better on me without them.

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As this dress didn’t utilize the beautiful flared skirt from the pattern, I look forward to sewing another version — possibly view B.  Whilst perusing the Cali Fabrics website, I picked out a few fabrics that I think this pattern would look lovely in, like pink and hot pink plaid cotton shirting,  natural and light blue stripe cotton/tencel chambray or a lovely overlay with this wine daisy design floral lace.

Tanya H, from TanyaMaile.com

Tanya is a Northern California ranch girl in love with retro prints and vintage patterns with a bit of modern flair. When not battling with her cat over her sewing table, she likes to repurpose junk, throw frisbees for her dogs, immerse herself in history books and geek out over sci-fi and fantasy. You can find her at her other home on the web: Mrs. Hughes.

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10 thoughts on “A Vintage Plaid Shirtdress (Vogue 9000)”

  1. I love it!!! I never would have used plaid. But you prove me wrong. Thank you for sharing your sewing adventures, they inspire me.

    1. Thank you, Mickey! I was inspired to use the plaid from the artwork (and sample) on the pattern. It’s easy to plaid match with a gathered skirt!

  2. Seriously every time I see what you’ve made, I grow more and more impressed with your sewing skills. The details and everything on this dress are so PERFECT.

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