What do you do when you have a large pattern stash but an idea for a piece that doesn’t quite fit what you already have? Why, you dream up the perfect Frankenpattern, of course!
UrbanDictionary.com defines the term “Frankenpattern” as:
To pattern using multiple styles and mis-matched pattern pieces. The end result is a combination of the garments that leaves the patternmaker horrified as to how it was put together, but usually no one else knows that from the end result. (phew!)
Although I wouldn’t say that I’m horrified as a result of my newest Frankenpattern; in fact, I’m very pleased! Meet the Bruyereville! Or.. um…. the Granyere!! Whatever – it’s the Deer and Doe Bruyere Shirt AND the Sewaholic Granville Shirt!
I love both patterns standalone, but they came with their own [minor] issues. The Granville is made for pear-shaped women, which works great for my ample tush, but I have wide shoulders which makes me hourglass shaped (first world problems, amirite?). So, I get some tugging when I flail my arms around in my long-sleeved Granvilles. It isn’t as bad as my Ready-to-Wear shirts of the past, but after I made the Bruyere, I realized it’s a perfect fit for my bust and shoulders!! The only problem with the Bruyere is that it’s more of a tunic instead of your normal button-down shirt.
So the remedy was to make my own pattern combining the best of both worlds!
I used the top half of the Bruyere and the bottom half of the Granville and smushed them together for my new traced pieces. I needed that under-bust dart to stay since it helps with shaping, so I made it into a fish-eye dart. I did the same for the back darts and it’s like magic! It somehow all went together seamlessly.
In the photos below, you can see the new pattern pieces I made – you only need to modify 2 pieces! I traced the top part of the Bruyere front piece and the bottom part of the Granville front piece. The blue arrow shows the new part of the fish-eye dart I added in by hand. I basically mirrored the dart of the Bruyere since the Granville has no shaping… easy peasy!
For the back piece, I did the same thing. The Granville back piece(s) comes as a side back and center back piece. I put them together so I could trace that beautiful curved hem you see. 🙂
I then used the Bruyere pattern for the rest of the shirt (collar, placket, sleeves, etc.) except for the pockets – those are from the Granville. A true collaboration of patterns!
The fabric is this cozy black and white plaid flannel from Cali Fabrics. I chose to mix up the print by sewing the back yoke, collar, button band,pockets, and sleeve cuffs on the bias for visual interest.
The only issue I had was keeping the fabric straight enough while I was cutting the pattern pieces. I’m not sure if it’s a result of the pattern being printed slightly off-grain or that this fabric is a little shifty. As a result, my “stripes” don’t match up across the front like I had hoped.
At least the shirt is busy enough that it’s not that noticeable… I hope? Oh, well!
This will be a great layering piece when the weather cools down again. Unfortunately, it looks like summer is coming upon us here in the desert. We had a very mild winter so hopefully we’ll have an early fall this year. (Ha! Who am I kidding?)
Anyway, you can check out two other plaid flannel shirts I made with Cali Fabrics fabric on my personal blog, if you’re interested! I made a straight-up Granville here and a straight-up Bruyere here. I guess you could say this shirt is a result of their romance. <3
Have you made a Frankenpattern recently? How did it go? Which patterns did you use?
You can follow more of Rachel’s adventures in sewing and cat wrangling at sewredy.wordpress.com!