What’s better than a handmade, designer-fabric Hawaiian shirt? How about two handmade, designer-fabric Hawaiian shirts? This time around I will show you how to perfectly match the fabric on the pocket to make it nearly invisible.
My husband loved and wore the first Hawaiian shirt I made him with Tori Richard designer shirting so much I made him a second one from the same pattern but a different weave, cotton jacquard instead of cotton lawn. I really like the way the rich color and diamond-weave of the jacquard elevates the novelty print. The shirt to me feels more sunset and glass of wine than sliders and Bikini Blonde. (There is room in my life for both, for sure, but let’s be dressed for the occasion, right?) The jacquard has a slight sheen and beautiful hand. It’s quite a bit thicker than the cotton lawn.
Cali Fabrics has several Tori Richard cotton lawns in stock including the one shown above. There’s also one cotton dobby (very similar to jacquard) and one jacquard, though the seashell print is sold out. You can find them here.
I again used the Wardrobe By Me Men’s Tropical Shirt pattern (afflink) with no adjustments at all to the pattern or construction. How I love a tried and true! I finished this one with vintage deadstock coconut shell buttons.
Now, on to that hidden pocket. It’s so easy!
Cut your shirt front from your fabric, and mark pocket placement. The pattern I am using shows where the top corners of the finished pocket should be placed, so I’ve transferred two small dots to the shirt front where the corners will be. I digitized on the pics so you can see which dots I am talking about.
Then, if your pocket pattern piece is not on tissue, trace and cut it from a translucent tissue paper. Note the facing (the extra bit at the top) and seam allowances on the pocket, and fold them out so your tissue piece resembles the finished pocket. I didn’t bother with the lower edges here, since I only needed to match the top corners. (*I also didn’t mark the grain line, and you should.) Place these top corners on the pocket placement marks on your shirt front. Again, I’ve digitized the pic.
Trace a bit of the motif of your fabric onto the tissue. You don’t need a lot of detail or to do every bit of it, just enough so you can find this exact repeat on the fabric again.
Unfold the facing and allowances, and find a place on your fabric where your tracing matches the motif. Cut out your pocket right here using the tissue as your pattern piece and carry on!
All pau! Aloha!