Are you sewing for fall yet?  It’s hard to think about it when the weather tops out over 100, but just think how glad you’ll be to pull on a new cardigan on the first chilly evening of fall.

To set the right example of sewing ahead, I sewed up 3 garments for fall, using some amazing fabrics from Cali Fabrics.  Since I didn’t choose the easiest fabrics to work with, today’s post is full of tips and tricks to make your fall sewing successful.

Lets start with the cable knit cardigan which is just screaming fall.  For this traditional structured cardigan I used Nautica Beckery Navy Heavyweight Cable Knit fabric.

Pattern: Cambridge Cardigan by Peekaboo Pattern Shop

Fabric: Beckery Cable Knit

5 Tips for sewing with Beckery Cable Knit

1. Keep the layers of your seam thin.  (Here’s a tutorial on how I modified the banded waistband and button placket to accommodate this thick fabric.)
2. Use a heavyweight ballpoint needle.
3. Don’t stretch the fabric.  It’s really stable and nice to work with, you’ll like it!
4. Use a stretch stitch.
5. Keep the back side of the fabric next to the feed dogs when possible.

The next piece I sewed is a maxi skirt.  First of all, to clarify, the stripes on this fabric run horizontally, but I decided to try for a modern look and lay them on the diagonal across the skirt.  Plus I decided to try matching the stripes on one of the side seams!  Yes, I like to live dangerously…well as dangerously as a mother of 7 can!

Pattern: Syrah Skirt by Baste & Gather

Fabric: Brush Stripe Cotton Jersey Knit

5 Tips for matching stripes on the diagonal

1. Don’t!
2. Cut out fabric right sides up.

3. Cut one half, then lay it on top of fabric, match the stripes and cut other half.

4. Pin pieces together at each stripe along the seam line, not along the edges.

5. Baste, check, then stretch stitch.  (If you look closely in my pins picture above, you’ll see that I didn’t follow my own excellent advice and had to rip out two very long seams of stretch stitch!)

The final piece I sewed is a scuba knit tank.  I wanted this to be a layering piece to wear under the cardigan.  The scuba/techno knit fabric is perfect for this because it’s thick enough to not be transparent.  I couldn’t find the perfect tank pattern, so I made a franken pattern from two of my favorite fitting patterns.  Because as a mother of 7, I constantly bend, kneel, reach, lift, carry, and twist all day long so I need my clothes to stay in place and not need my attention too!

Pattern:  Combination of Lane Raglan and Union Street Tee by Hey June Patterns

Fabric: Off-white Techno Knit

5 Tips for sewing with scuba/techno knit

1. Choose a pattern suitable for a more structured knit.
2. Use a stretch stitch.
3. Use a stretch needle.
4. Keep your layers to a minimum.
5. Modify your pattern to be able to fold over edges rather than use bands on neckline, waistband, and armholes.

Alright, I’ve got 3 items marked off my fall sewing list!  If you’re ready to get started on your fall sewing, grab these fall fabrics from Cali Fabrics and get sewing!

Audrey is a mother of 7, loves skirts, and blogs over at Skirt Fixation.