Three Fabrics, One Pattern

One of the things I love most about sewing is you can totally change the look and feel of a piece of clothing depending on the fabric you choose.

I decided to have a bit of an experiment with the True Bias Ogden Cami and some very different fabrics from Cali Fabrics. Let’s take a look!

1. Silk Ogden Cami (AKA Dreamy Cami)

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This was my first time working with real silk and I have to say that although it had its challenges, it is easier to sew with than those faux silk fabrics! This is made from the silver silk charmeuse and it is so dreamy!

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Since this is a fabric that loves to slip and slide around, I cut my pattern pieces flat. I sewed as slowly as I could with a Microtex needle to try to prevent the needle from pushing the fabric into the bobbin case. It’s typical for lighter fabrics to give you this headache, so I’ve read it helps to sew these types of fabrics with tissue paper underneath.

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I had some issues with the hem trying to warp as I sewed it, so I have a little “duck tail” in the back.

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But it’s OK because it’s just as stunning tucked in!

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Now with silk, you should probably dry-clean it, but I have never stepped foot into a dry-cleaner’s so I threw it into my washing machine alone on the hand wash setting. I laid it flat out to dry as I was scared to torture it with the dryer.

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It turned out fine and didn’t lose much of its initial sheen, so I’m happy! Always remember to wash your fabric how you’ll always end up washing it before you sew with it. This will prevent any shrinking or warping.

Another tip is I highly recommend sewing this fabric using a French seam. You can check out a tutorial I made for my rayon Seamwork Catarina Cami here. A French seam will provide strength as well as clean, non-fraying seams on the inside!

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My husband thinks this top looks more like pajamas, but I would rather show this beautiful fabric off in public! What do you think?

2. Two-Toned Sequin Ogden Cami (AKA Party Cami)

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One of my childhood fantasies was to be a mermaid, so I love that this “mermaid” reversible sequin fabric can at least let me pretend I’m a mermaid… at least for a little while.

Yes, the sequins are a beautiful mermaid-y rainbow of blue/green/purple, depending on how you look at it, but the coolest thing ever is how the sequins are reversible!!

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A swipe of the hand reveals a cool matte black on the other side! The great thing about reversible sequin fabric is that it’s hearty. You can go to town on those sequins and they are not going anywhere. That is a plus in my book, but it is also a minus when you’re trying to rip the sequins out of the seam allowance to minimize needle breakage. These suckers are on there GOOD and you have to physically rip them out ONE by ONE. I swear I took about 5 hours to rip all of the sequins out of a 1/2 inch seam allowance on only two pattern pieces, minus the hem since I left it as a raw edge! Another plus for this fabric… it doesn’t fray!

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I cheated for the straps and instead of making them out of fabric, I bought some 1/2 inch-wide faux leather strips. I needed something that could hold up to the heft of this sequin fabric plus the knit lining I added underneath. Sewing with sequins tip #386: Make sure you line it! The wrong side of sequin fabric isn’t very comfortable, so always line your project with a skin-loving fabric.

While I’m on the subject of sewing with sequin tips, here are some other things I learned:

  • Lay out your fabric flat to cut – it’s hard enough to cut through one layer of sequins… it will be impossible to get through two!
  • Trace your pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric. This makes life easier and you won’t tear your pattern paper when things get down and dirty during cutting.
  • Use really sharp scissors that aren’t your fabric or paper scissors. Cutting sequins dulls scissors like crazy so have a miscellaneous pair handy!
  • Vacuum after every sequin cutting/ripping session. These suckers get EVERYWHERE.
  • While sewing, be careful not to sew over any sequins. For this particular fabric, I managed to sew over a couple of sequins and am happy to report there were no broken needles! Some people brave it and don’t rip out the sequins in the seam allowance and just go for it. I don’t wear glasses and love my eyes, so I’m paranoid I’ll get a broken needle flying at my face.

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I am super happy with how this top came out because I have some big plans for it… In a week, I’ll be in Las Vegas to go see the Backstreet Boys in concert! I figure this fabric is very Vegas-y and I can write out my love to the BSB in sequins. “I <3 Nick 4-eva.”

And take a look – Leslie hopped onto the sequin fabric bandwagon in her post here and now I think I might have to make a reversible sequin blazer! Very awesome piece, Leslie!

3. Rayon Ogden Cami (AKA Cool Summer Cami)

And last but not least, here’s an Ogden Cami made from the rest of this rayon fabric I had left over from my first Cali & Co. post about the Deer and Doe Arum Dress! (Note: the fabric is currently sold out, but you can choose from an array of awesome rayon fabrics here!).

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I love this one as it’s very versatile… I can dress it up or down. It’s also very comfortable and cool for these hot summer days here in the desert!

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I’m glad I found a use for the rest of this fabric that will also get a lot of love.

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I am so on the Ogden Cami bandwagon now and I can’t stop thinking about how many other versions I want to make!

Have you had any experience in making the same pattern out of different fabrics? Let’s discuss in the comments!

Happy sewing! XOXO

-RED

You can follow more of Rachel’s adventures in sewing and cat wrangling at sewredy.wordpress.com!

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13 thoughts on “Three Fabrics, One Pattern”

  1. OOOH, such a good post! I would never have thought of sequins for the pattern, but you are selling it well! You look great in all three!

    1. Thanks, Gillian! I’m so happy with how they turned out, especially the sequined one. The Ogden is really an amazing pattern to pull off so many different looks!

  2. I love your tops.

    I did that very thing today. I cut out 21 dressy tanks (sewing tomorrow). I used dbp, cl and a sweater knit. They all look different on their drape.

    1. Thanks! Wow, you have a full day ahead of you! I love getting the most out of a pattern when you can use so many different fabrics to make different looks. Good luck today!

  3. Love all of these! And I love that you’re experimenting with so many different fabrics. My fav is the sequins! It’s so freaking fantastic! You need some pleather leggings to go with it. If I saw you, I would totally steal it right off of you. Too much fun! It’s very much your personality too!

    1. Thanks, Jamie! I actually DO have pleather leggings… I should just go ahead and rock them as pants one day. Maybe at the next concert. 🙂

      *Note to self: don’t wear the sequin cami in front of Jamie unless I have another top as a backup. :-p

  4. Love the sequins! I *just* saw a cami shirt in a boutique the other day and thought… “I’ll bet I could make a sequined Ogden and it would be just the same!” Now I’m completely inspired!!! Did you end up having to add sequins near your seam allowances after the fact??

    1. Thanks and you can totally make your own! I made sure I kept measuring my seam allowances as I was ripping the sequins out, so I actually didn’t have to sew sequins back on to cover up bald spots. The great thing about the reversible fabric is the sequins flip back and forth, so I think it would be easy to hide any small bald spots.

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