Hey Sewists!  I am excited to share my newest dress with you.  It is no secret that one of my favorite fabric fibers is rayon.  Rayon jersey and rayon challis being my two favorite fabrics at the moment.  Today, I have a new rayon challis dress to share.  This particular kelly green rayon challis to be exact.  Hurry and pick some up quick. It is almost gone.  I promise you won’t be sorry. But first, let’s talk about Butterick 6090! It has a bit of a retro flair while still being modern. I was instantly drawn to it.

Butterick 6090 is currently OOP and has been on my to make list for two years now.  Originally I had planned to make it in a different fabric and I was going to use this rayon challis for a different pattern.  But, you know, plans change and you go with the flow.  This pattern features a gathered front yoke neckline with a structured standing collar and a pleated skirt.  I opted to gather the skirt instead because I think it keeps it more consistent with the neckline gathers.  One side note about the pattern; the flat illustrations show 13 buttons but the fashion illustrations, notions requirements, and pattern pieces all call for 12 buttons.

This pattern calls for a lightweight fabric such as challis or crepe, which seems great, but I am not so sure.  This pattern does not have a lining nor does it call for any extra stabilizer at the waistline.  As a result, the skirt is heavy and pulls at the bodice creating dips.  I think that had I done the pleats instead it would still be the same situation.  I really think the bodice needs a lining.

I also think the sizing is just a bit off.  Looking at the finished garment measurements, the waist should have been spot on with my measurement and the bust should have had a 1/2″ of ease.  Instead, I can pinch the side seam by just over an inch on each side and still have enough ease. Without taking it in the armhole is a bit too big and shows my bra.   I typically read pattern reviews before cutting my fabric and I didn’t do that this time.  I for sure should have.  All the reviews I read afterward mention the sizing being bigger than expected

I would like to make this again at some point, but I am going to have to rework it a bit.  I want to create a bodice lining that will still allow the neckline to have the same structure. In the end, I like this dress a lot for summer.  It is so lightweight that it is going to be perfect for those super hot humid midwestern days.

What are your favorite fabrics to wear during the summer?